Bebe and Me

Bebe!!!!!!!!

My visit to Minneapolis has been put on hold because the newest bebe arrived this morning at 2:12am. Yea!! His name is Talan James...yes, like Talan on Laguna Beach. My sister-in-law and brother said that's not where it's from, but yeah...Anyway, he's adorable. 6 pounds and 10 ounces, 19 inches long. I think it's weird that they measure babies in lengths. It's also weird that both of my younger brothers have babies. I do love being an aunt though. Isn't he cute?

Talan, mid-yawn

Talan, post-yawn

Blancs have more fun

Thanks, Tara, for the title. I actually think it's hilarious. For those of you who haven't heard, a "blanc" is...well, it's not so clearly defined. Literally it means "white" in Creole. In practice, it often means anyone who's not Haitian and has some money.

Anyway, this is probably the last of the Haiti posts as I'm leaving for Minneapolis tomorrow and will have other things to post about.

So being a blanc in Haiti has its perks, like first class airline seats. But, it also invites some...interesting situations, particularly involving men. Let me give a few examples. First, men feel like they can walk up to you and just say "I love you baby, marry me!" I used to think this was just for blancs, but after watching "I Love You Anne," a Haitian movie, it may also be for Haitian women.

One night Charity and I went out for dinner at the restaurant at a hotel. While we were eating we saw a group of guys come in. We were laughing at them because they looked like they were trying to dress "American," and going just a little too far. And one of them had huge, disgusting muscles, like he was on steroids. So the muscley one sits down at the table next to us, and a tall one (probably 6'3" or something) walks over and plants his hands on our table. Oh, and he thinks he is smooooooooth. Here's his introduction:

Him: Hello. What's your name?
Charity: Charite. Char-i-te.
Him: Oh, do you do it a lot? (Confused stares from me to Char and back)
Charity: Do what?
Him: Charity. Like your name.
Him: I saw you Wed. night. I know where you were.

Uh....what? Okay, this was starting to get creepy. It turns out that he had seen us at the Petionville Club. You kind of stand out as a blanc.

So it went on. Introductions were made, and then he told us, seemingly as part of the introduction, that he is the director of special operations for the police force, as if that should inspire awe and fawning. Anyway, he was a total jerk and interrupted our dinner for about 10 minutes.

Strangely, the next day we were sitting in a burger place waiting for our order, and we saw him (the police chief), and the muscley guy on tv. It turns out there was a body building competition at the beach and the police guy was promoting the body builder. Haiti is strange.

Though I often find the...wooing tactics, to be slimey and humorous, all the attention is fun sometimes. But here's the point of my post--I think Haitian men have the best of the whole situation. From what I've observed and have been told, they get to go around wooing from woman to woman (and often much more than wooing), and most Haitian women don't blame the men--they blame each other!

If you ever want to see a cat fight, let me tell you...insinuate, in the slightest way, that someone is stealing a Haitian woman's man, and it's on.

Another reason blancs have more fun. :)

The Baptist Mission

One afternoon while I was in Haiti, we went up to the Baptist Mission. I went with Charity, and another friend who is in Haiti with MINUSTAH.

The mission is all the way up a mountain, hence the beautiful views (there are pictures in the previous post). It's also nice because they have a restaurant and bakery with amazing food. It's also just peaceful there, a welcome repreive from Port-au-Prince.

I had been to the mission before when I lived in Haiti. In fact, there was a teacher at Quisqueya who married a man that works at the mission. but until this trip I did not know about some of the, um, eccentricities of the mission.

For one, they have a "zoo." I put it in quotes because it's, well, a very sad zoo. Charity pointed out though that it's probably the only zoo some Haitians will see. We saw this monkey, who looked like he's had much trash thrown at him. Either that or he's been binging on candy lately.

There was also an alligator (with a little boy poking him with a stick), peacocks, and a whole slew of rabbits. No wonder, since they had more than one in a cage. Sadly the American Raccoon had died, but they still had a couple of snakes.

Somehow even stranger than the zoo was the mission museum. I'm not sure what qualifies as a museum, but if a few animals qualify as a zoo, I guess this qualifies as a museum.

Some background first--missionaries are weird. Granted, this is my humble opinion. But, in my experience, missionaries are strange, and have to be to do what they do. So the missionaries who started the mission had some crazy ideas. And, they have a whole wall of the museum devoted to their family and their photos. A friend told me that the Haitians actually call the mission "Kay Wallace," which means the house of the Wallace's, the people who started it.

So keeping in mind that missionairies are somewhat eccentric and bizarre people, here's
some of what was in the museum. Notice the fossilized dinosaur manure, and the Indian pottery--the sign is my favorite. And, possibly the most hilarious part to me is the, well, let's call it "slant" on most of the sign.

Like this sign to the left. It says "They ate all of Haiti's monkeys, but still liked to picture their faces!" Weird!

The blue wall below is a group of pictures of different groups of people around the world. So the museum had some Haitian history stuff--Duvalier, money from of old, some old armaments, etc. It also had the customary missionary versus voodoo display, and then it got weird.

There were some posters of old cars, then a few walls displaying clothing and customs of people around the world, and the whole wall about the people who started the mission.

I mean no disrespect to missionaries, but in my personal experience, this museum exemplifies what missionaries can be like. Self-absorbed, judgemental, and not always very accurate about things like fact and truth.

Like I said, not all missionaries, but many.

If you don't believe me, read The Poisonwood Bible.

One thing I learned though living in Haiti is that you just have to LAUGH out loud at stuff like this--it's funny!

Haiti is messed up. Laugh when you can.

Pictures from Haiti

The road to Ft. Jacques

The view of Port-au-Prince from Ft. Jacques

An inverter, which stores electricity when it's on (1-2 hours/day) so it can be used later

A Flamboyant tree we saw from the road

Another view of Port-au-Prince

More of Port-au-Prince

Driving down Delmas

Things that go bump in the night

I've decided to post stories/pics. from Haiti in different posts, mostly to help me organize my thoughts on this trip. This one is dedicated to the Olaffson Hotel, featured in Graham Greene's The Comedians, and all things dark.

Charity and I had drinks at The Olaffson during the week I was there. It's interesting to actually see the hotel after reading Graham Greene's novel. In the novel, the Olaffson is alternately a bastien of safety and a den of inquity.

Today, it's a shabby, rambling hotel that desperately needs a renovation. The paint is flaking, the foliage overgrown, and the tile chipped. It also has the feeling that it's almost deserted as you walk in, and you don't see any guests walking the grounds.

There was a Graham Greene room, on the room he supposedly stayed in while he was in Haiti.

In many ways, the hotel reflects the dark days of the Duvalier years, which have morphed into the dark days in Haiti now. The threat is no longer Papa Doc and the Tontons Macoutes, but now it's kidnappings and all manner of corruption.

While I was in Haiti I learned about many kidnappings, and one of a former student of mine. The girl was in 7th grade when I taught in Haiti, and is now high school age. I was horrified to find out that she had been kidnapped, but even more horrified to find out that people think that she was kidnapped by a former classmate at the school. Though this is all passed by word of mouth (the only reliable means of communication in Haiti), and may be more or less true, it's very disturbing.

The last Sunday before I left we learned of another kidnapping at church. It's hard to explain the level of fear that instills in you, to hear that people you know are being taken off the streets. And what's even more amazing to me, is the dedication of people working there that doesn't waiver. Though most people understand they're at risk, it doesn't stop their belief in making Haiti a better place, though the US Ambassador has as much as admitted that Haiti is a failed state. Interestingly, some Haitian-American friends said that what Haiti really needs is an act of God--an earthquake, hurricane, etc. to just start over.

I wasn't lying!

I've mentioned to a few people my memories of having "pet parades" at the nursing home in town when I was little. We would dress up our animals (my cat Jeffy and my rabbit Sport) in Cabbage Patch Kid clothes, and parade them around for the residents to see. Each person I've said this too found it unbelievable that this would happen. Here's proof: an article from the local newspaper, detailing this year's pet parade. I wasn't lying!

Safe and Sound

I am home safe and sound, and so is my computer! Yippee! That means pictures and stories from Haiti later tonight!

No Man's Land

I am home! Sort of...I'm actually in Miami, a no man's land on this trip. I have lots of pictures to post, and stories that are hard to believe, but that will have to wait until I'm home and can hook up my camera to my newly-repaired laptop (yea!). I guess I'm exchanging a now-working laptop for sunglasses I broke in Haiti--smashed them in the gate of Charity's house...oops.

Anyway, the airport ordeal is over. I can't tell you what a relief it is when leaving Haiti to actually be seated on the airplane. Let me back up though...We left the house at 7:25am this morning, and I didn't actually sit down in the gate area until 10:20am, and the airport is probably 5 miles from Charity's house.

The line at the airport was a mile long, and I had three guys ask me if I would like to "check in real quickly!" Well, yes, I would, but not for what they were asking. If any one of them thinks I'm going to give my passport up to some stranger in the airport to avoid standing in line, think again. Even though the line was hot, sweaty, and stinky. I was standing with the pastor of Charity's church though, which was a little reassuring.

Not quite as reassuring was the baggage "inspector." He put his hand in my bag for about five seconds, sort of moved it around, and then asked me if I was married...ugh. Thankfully my Creole isn't good enough to know what else he said. He did give my bag back though.

Here's the part of the experience this time that I find hard to swallow--I had waited at the gate to be one of the last people on. It's not like I could've pushed through the rushing crowd even if I had wanted to. So I'm standing in line, and a nice Haitian guy behind me is chatting with me--he lived in the states and was just being friendly--no marriage proposals. All the sudden everyone is pointing at me and saying "madam." The gate agent wanted my attention. I look at her, and she asks for my boarding pass. I give it to her, and she tears it up! I was about to say something when she printed out a new one...for first class.

Slightly confused, I take it and get on the plane. The pastor and his wife have also been bumped into first class. I hear the flight attendants talking about how the flight is oversold. Here's what gets me though--it's only because I'm white. There was no other explanation--I had a seat assignment already, I was in the middle of the line with people all around me, and the gate agent picked me.

Haiti's got some issues...

More stories soon!

The rain in Haiti

This is what happens when it rains in Haiti.

Miss Charite and a few other random thoughts about Haiti

Bon jou! Computer access again, it's amazing. Actually, I'm at Charity's office where they have wireless...a lot sure has changed since I was here last. When I first arrived for my teaching job in 2001, we had the worst internet connection and would wait nearly an hour to read or send one e-mail.

So anyway, Charity is the reason I'm back in Haiti. When I came here to teach, I lived with her and another roommate. She helped me adjust to Haiti, having already lived here a while--one year out in an orphanage in the countryside, and many more in Port-au-Prince.

I promised Charity that I would write a post about her, picture and all. So what really impresses me about her, and many others in Haiti, is her dedication to this country and the people. She's worked here for I think 5 or 6 years now, and just became the country director for the Mennonite Central Committee. They work here in Haiti on reforestation projects and human rights. I've been teasing her that she is now the "gwo chef" or head honcho, but she's very humble about it all.

Okay, a few other random thoughts about Haiti since yesterday's post--first, you will never see a night as dark as night in Haiti. Without electricity or many street lights, stepping out of someone's house at night is like stepping into another world. I remember reading a great description of the darkness in Edwidge Danticant's book "Breath, Eyes, Memory."

Another random thing--Nearly everyone in Port-au-Prince is now carrying around 2 cell phones. It either attests to the disorganization present in daily life, or the ingenuity of Haitians. A new cell phone company came in recently offering lower rates and charging by the second instead of the minute along with better international rates. However, their network does not interface with the existing cell phone company, so everyone carries two phones with two numbers.

One last random thought--I went to a Bible study last night with Charity, and was impressed with the sharing and study of the Bible in so many different languages. As the study began, the pastor asked us to read the last chapter of 1st John, taking turns reading around the circle. As the verses were read, each person read the next verse in his or her own language, encompassing at least three or four lanuages by the time the chapter was done. There is beauty in the diversity of the body of Christ.

I'm in Haiti!

I'm here, in Haiti, yea! Charity and I are sitting in a coffee shop in Petionville, the first of its kind in Port-au-Prince. It's amazing. A lot has changed since I was here last, in 2003 I think.

The airport scenario did not play out quite how I thought it might. First, we left about 30 minutes late from Miami. This was because someone checked in, and checked baggage, but never showed up for the flight. So, they had to rifle through the luggage to find this person's stuff and get it off the plane. And Haitians take their right to baggage seriously...most people carrying suitcases equivalent to their body weight or size. I saw someone taking on board a full-size keyboard, many boomboxes (80s style, all square), plants (yep), and the woman seated behind me had a gigantic plastic bag, at least 4 feet tall. She also had a roll of packing tape around her arm during the whole flight, and when we landed started to tape up the bag...why when we landed? I have no idea.

So we land in Port-au-Prince, and there are a few sprinkles coming down. They turn off the seatbelt sign, and everyone jumps up. There's a mad rush for the door. Then, the flight attendants tell everyone to sit down. For those of you who have been on one of these flights, you can imagine what happened. If you haven't, here's what happened--no one paid one bit of attention. They kept shoving toward the door. It took the Creole-speaking flight attendant barking for people to sit down before anyone moved. It became apparent that it was raining outside, along with thunder and lightning, and they said we would have to wait for 10-15 minutes before we could get off the plane. Well, 10-15 became about an hour and a half, during which one guy tried to start a riot, a pastor tried to calm him down, and a whole group of people started singing hymns and having a party in the back.

Then, and this is the best part, they told us that they would take us off in small groups with umbrellas and a small van, but we would need some patience. HA! The mad rushing of the door continued, and American Airlines actually ferried us individually into the airport under umbrellas.

I got through customs and immigration easily, but when I came out of the airport, was again pursued by many, many men wanting to help me with my luggage or give me a taxi ride. I exahusted my knowledge of Creole with "M'pa bezwen" and "No, mesi,' I don't need it, and no thank you. Trying to keep some space, I acted like I knew exactly where my ride was, even though I wasn't quite sure. Making a fool of myself, I actually tried to wade through the now rushing river accumulated in front of the airport from the rain. A wave of laughter rose from the crowd as I was almost up to my knees in what I can only imagine was some sort of sewage/trash/rainwater sludge. Eventually I found my ride, but lost any sense of dignity. Ah, Haiti.

Anyway, the rest of the trip so far has been great. Charity and I have been hanging out, eating all the wonderful Haitian food, and playing Scrabble. Mangoes, baguette, diri, etc. have been so good. I'm hoping for some banan peze at some point and then I'll be set. I've spent a lot of time reading outside on the porch while Charity works, and generally taking in Haiti again.

I'm not really sure how to describe Haiti...it's the same as it was, but a lot has changed. And you forget how much it can assault your senses. As I was sitting outside one morning I realized how much I was being bombarded with--I could alternately smell trash and someone cooking breakfast, I could see the street with its masses of people walking to and fro, the birds flitting tree to tree, and the neighbor's kids playing on their steps. Possibly the most assaulting, at least in Port-au-Prince, is the noise. That morning I could hear the birds, loud trucks on the street, people walking and yelling, someone selling mops, a radio playing loudly somewhere, and a couple somewhere arguing. Amazing.

Church on Sunday at the Fellowship House reminded me of other realities of Haiti. The sermon was about fear, and after the sermon the pastor asked for anyone who wanted to to share about how they had been delivered from fear. 3 different people spoke, 2 sharing stories of loved ones or friends who have been kidnapped in the past few weeks. It's a reality here. One of my former students, now an 11th grader, was kidnapped, and thankfully returned.

Being here makes you much more thankful for the small things. This morning the electricity was on for about a half hour, which meant I could shower with good water pressure--I was elated. You get far more excited about just hanging out with good friends and having dinner with people.

Anyway, I'm having a good trip, despite a few pesky mosquitoes. Hopefully non-malaria and non-dengue mosquitoes, though that remains to be seen.

I may or may not have a chance to update again while I'm here. Hope you all are well! Bon Swa!

The nightmare that is the PAP airport

So my friend Charity gave me this advice about arriving at the Port-au-Prince airport: Walk through like you own the world. She's so right. She's been trying to reassure me about the experience for the last day or two, but I hate it.

This may have something to do with the very first time I flew in there--I had been in Amanda and Jason's wedding the night before, got up at 3am, forgot to wear deodorant (oops!) and arrived on a day when the luggage carousels were not working and they were unloading everyone's luggage (at least 3 flights full) by hand. It took about 3 hours for me to get out of the airport with my luggage.

If you look at the picture I snagged from the internet, you can see the crowds outside. This is a normal day. The crowds inside are much the same, with everyone asking you, no, more likely demanding that they help you with your luggage. It's really quite a daunting experience. If you're lucky, you can walk out of the airport not only with a porter or two for your bags, but likely with a few marriage proposals. A favorite compliment/insult that I got while I was in Haiti was that I have a "good form," which means something like good birthing hips crossed with an hourglass figure....hmm, I'm not sure about that.

Anyway, if you're praying people, think about me Sat. afternoon. And the masses of people who travel to and from Haiti everyday. For an insightful story into the horrors of the Port-au-Prince airport, check out this story from a missionary who lives there.

Frantico

There are so many things I'd like to write/post about, and so little good computer access and time in which to do it. I dropped off my laptop today in Sioux Falls, hoping that it can be salvaged. Then Dave and I had drinks tonight at the Blue Mountain Club in OC, which was a really good time. Tomorrow my nephew will be here to be babysat, and Friday I leave for Haiti. I also have been thinking a lot about the grotesque in N'west Iowa (more to come later), and what makes me go back to Haiti (other than Miss Charite). I also detest slow computers, and lack of wireless internet access. I'm also lamenting the loss of the SJ libraries for the summer...they're so awesome. The Hull library had exactly 2 books on CD, and stacks of Christian romance novels, ick.

So I don't know when I'll blog again, whether or not I'll have access in Haiti, etc. Wish me luck on the journey--it's pretty much a quest since it'll take a full 4 days to get there and back. Hooray for having bought books in preparation. This will be the month I finish Anna Karenina.

Ack!

I just got back from a great visit with Sara and Jeff, and was excited to post a picture of Sara with her new short hair. It's cool. But, to my shock and horror, my laptop will not turn on. This is horrible. My only comfort is that I started backing stuff up on an external hard drive at home, but this is still quite disturbing... At least my parents' computer still works.

Not a lot else going on...lots of chatting and hanging out with Sara and Jeff. I also leave for Haiti this weekend, then see Ang and Ryan after that, and hopefully a few days visiting camp. It all makes for a pretty boring blog during the summer I suppose. If you're bored reading, check out Donna's. She's got a fun summer activity going on right now.

Back to the Blogosphere

I feel like I've been gone forever, but I guess it's only a few days. It feels like more because this place is so different than where I came from. Yesterday a neighbor lady was talking about somebody's farm operation, and she was telling my mom who worked there. She said "They've got a De Jong, a Groeneweg, and a Mexican."

I've mostly been relaxing at the lakes with the family. I can't say we've really done a whole lot. We spent some time out on the boat, laid out on the dock, and ate at the obligatory restaurants--the Inn and the Wharf. We did make a trip to Walmart, where I saw a curly mullet, and we've all been spending a lot of time ogling this guy:

The plans for the week are pretty sparse. I set up the wireless router I bought my dad for father's day (thanks, Jeff!). I've spent a lot of the morning playing my parents' piano and hanging out on their back deck. It's a nice view, actually. They live on the edge of town, so there's a big backyard that backs up to a cornfield. Very Iowa. Oh, and there's a kid mowing our lawn...someone my parents know, I hope.

Later on in the week I'll get to see Nellie and her girls who are coming back to the motherland. Yea!